| Brake and fog light conversion by Ian Mould |
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Instructions on wiring fog lights These instructions along with the circuit diagram are to show how to convert the inner stop/tail lamps to incorporate fog lights. When the fog lights are off, then the inner lamps will work as intended, i.e. stop/tail lights. When the fog lights are turned on, then the brake lights will only be seen at high level and the outer cluster. Tail lights will work at all times. The job is quite easy for those that can read circuit diagrams and can use a soldering iron, although it is recommended that you take time to study the drawing and read and understand the instructions! Other tools/materials needed: -
First off remove both rear light clusters. As you withdraw them you will see numerous wires from the loom; we are interested only in the wiring to the inner stop/tail lights which will be coloured green. Starting on the near side cluster take the green wire entering the inside stop/tail lamp holder and cut it. Insulate the end of the wire that goes back into the loom, use heat shrink tubing or self-amalgamating tape, this end of the wire is now finished with. The part of the green wire coming from the lamp holder needs to be extended. Solder wiring of the same current rating and preferably the same colour to it, (using heat shrink or tape to insulate the join), and poke it back through the grommet carrying it behind the carpet out through the grommet on the offside. The green wire on the inner stop/tail light of the offside cluster also needs to be cut. The part of the wire that enters the lamp holder needs to be soldered to the wire you have just brought over from the near side lamp. You also need another wire connected at this junction long enough to reach the front of the car. The part of this wire that enters the loom also needs to be extended to the front of the car, both of these wires should be protected to stop chafing etc. by using spiral wrap. This is available from RS and Demon Tweeks amongst others places. These wires are shown as black and green on the circuit diagram. Again, insulate the joins. A switching relay is required and RS part number 178-2012 was used, although any relay of this type can be accommodated, (Demon Tweeks part number LMA797 should do the trick). Connect the extended green wire to the normally closed contact of the relay and the extended black wire to the common pin as shown, (refer to cct diagram). A constant live is required to be connected to the normally open pin and this can be picked up from anywhere. Fit the fog light switch, (Mitsubishi part number MR114085), into the dash next to the mirror adjustment switches. Information on Steve Hemming's site can be found on how to do this. Remove the surround from the dial cluster to gain access to the front fog light switch cabling. You will find a thicker red wire and will need to remove a small portion of the jacket so as to solder a lead from here to pin three of the switch, (alternatively use a Scotch Lock). By doing this, power is only available to the rear fog lights when the front fog lights are on. If you do not require this facility, then find any constantly live cable to join into. Solder a wire from pin two of the switch to one of the pins of the coil on the relay, (this lead is shown as blue/yellow to pin 85). The second pin of the relay coil should be taken to ground, (shown as pin 86). Using a couple of sticky pads, stick the relay to the bodywork near the fuse box by the accelerator pedal. If you can find a neater or better place to put it, then by all means do! Pins one and four on the switch should have a loop of wire soldered across them, this is the warning lamp within the switch to show that the fog lights are on. Make sure all joins are insulated and good and then test the circuit, remembering to switch on the front fog lights first! ![]()
DISCLAIMER: This information is supplied in good faith. If in doubt, please consult a qualified auto electrician. No responsibility can be accepted for any damage caused by carrying out these modifications. Any modifications are made entirely at the owners own risk. E&OE. |